FYODOR GOLAN INTERVIEW (LOGO.EC 11.06.13)
Playing off their differences to create pieces harmonious in purity, texture and concept, London-based design duo Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman have gone from strength to strength since their A/W12 debut, having won the 2011 Fashion Fringe prize and gained experience with names like Raf Simons and Issey Miyake. Here, they discuss ’90s motifs, surrealist accessories and Alanis Morissette.
LOGO: Though your A/W13 collection generally expressed this elegant, glamorous aesthetic, you also incorporated some subtle rave/’90s influences (i.e. the smiley rave motifs) – what was the motive there?
FG: It comes from our childhoods, growing up with grunge music and kitsch elements (such as smileys) in our everyday life. Our Belle de Jour collection was about the journey of discovering sexuality and expressing it through different moods. We wanted to make Smiley more sexual and luxurious – we embossed black patent leather with many smiley faces and embroidered it with many different techniques. Contrast is something we explore and is a part of us.
LOGO: What was the inspiration behind that giant headpiece? Were you aiming to make a statement about keeping focus on apparel (rather than models) in shows, or was it more about the aesthetic effect?
FG: It came from a surreal point of view. At that time we watched many Bunuel and Cocteau films – I think it was almost subconscious. It’s about the girl who looks deep inside herself, and metamorphosed into a mirror image of herself. The face piece/mask was an organic element and showed movement; the face started to come out, stretched, deforming the hand-painted drawing. It was about showing the process – the element of change.
LOGO: You’ve mentioned before that music is really influential to your process – what was playing in the studio when you put the collection together?
LOGO: To me, your designs always carry a sense of drama and theatricality – do ever you find it challenging to channel that kind of evening flair into more wearable pieces?
FG: Of course – it’s an urge to create more than life – but it’s more interesting and challenging to create for actual people in real life situations. It’s an amazing feeling seeing someone in your garments. You need to keep in your mind what is sellable and what not, and how much it would be? Things like that… which can be a downer, but it helps you to rediscover the garment you create, and make it even stronger.
LOGO: So would you ever do a high street collaboration?
FG: We think that could be actually quite unique to do; when two very different worlds meet magic will happen. We shop in Uniqlo most of the time, so it would great to do something with them.
LOGO: You’ve described your partnership as being a ‘Jekyll and Hyde’ kind of vibe – what are the main differences between your approaches? Do you tend to fall into set roles when putting designs together?
FG: It’s not just an approach, it’s a state of mind and personalities – while one is more fragile the other will be stronger, and vice versa. We can both see the same object from two very different perspectives, which is what really drives us. It’s about dialogue; there are certain roles each of us fills. When it comes to the design process, it evolves every season. The process is very much alive; one can be critical, the other more defensive, but it opens a dialogue so creation is developed and grows stronger.
LOGO: You’ve come a long way from your debut last year – what’s been the most surprising thing you’ve learnt as you’ve become more established? (And what’s been the biggest challenge of your career to date?)
FG: You really need to listen to yourself; in fashion there are too many opinions. Because we like to make big steps, each season is a challenge, as we try to find ways that give us drive. Every season we go through different emotional states – it’s almost like a different person left behind. Sometimes you want to say more then you can physically, emotionally or even finically. We don’t compromise, so we always try to find creative ways of creating. The biggest challenge is always the next season.
LOGO: If you had the chance to dress any famous person/celebrity, who would it be (and what would you make them wear)?
FG: Raf Simons is a very kind and gentle man – I love the contrast between his designs and his personality. McQueen and Miyake both taught us patience, and showed us the whole process up to every single tiny detail.
LOGO: What do you have in store for Spring/Summer 2014?
FG: Mood of Change – something more directional, bold and sporty.
LOGO: And finally… some quickfire questions!
Favourite piece of clothing: Colourful Adidas sneakers
The last text message you sent: ‘Where is the sun…?!?X’
The best + worst thing about living in London: Walking around is the best, rain is the worst!
Best party jam: Azealia Banks ‘1991’
Ideal night out: Dinner, film and a drink.
Interview: Charlotte McManus
Posted on 11/06/2013, in Fashion and tagged belle du jour, charlotte mcmanus, cocteau, designer interview, fashion, fashion fringe, fyodor golan, fyodor golan aw13, issey miyake, lfw, Raf Simons, uniqlo. Bookmark the permalink. Leave a comment.